| CAVIAR: ROE PROCESSING MANUAL | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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When caviar is refrigerated the membranes become denser, the egg inner yolky liquid more viscous and the egg as a whole becomes more elastic. These properties disappear when caviar is brought back to room temperature. So the changes are reversible. When caviar is subjected to the freezing of inner yolky liquid, some irreversible changes oc-cur. Yolk of a salted egg comprises a protein-fat-brine emulsion. When the frozen brine component is thawed the fat droplets congregate in larger particles, and a protein con-taining liquid is coagulated and released from the emulsion. This in turn makes the egg less elastic, the egg looks dull and is easier to rupture. This is why when salmon caviar is frozen in large size, and tall pails, one observes after thawing a lot of juice on the bot-tom and a considerable number of broken egg membranes. However, the taste and fla-vour do not change significantly. Freezing caviar in small retail packages is the most advantageous way of freezing. Frozen caviar constitute a non transparent hardened mass of eggs which contains ice crystals and is much paler than the original caviar colour. Frozen caviar stands up very well to the rigors of transportation. That is why to get the largest gain in quality and shelf life, when frozen caviar is shipped, thawing should be done only before the prod-uct is passed on to the consumer. The prevailing practice in sushi bars and delicatessen stores is to keep salmon caviar frozen, and only thaw it according to demand. Freezing and storing should be done at -20°C. Japanese researchers recommend long term storage at -40°C. Thawing should be executed as slowly as possible. For salmon caviar minimum damage to the egg (rupture and juice release) is achieved when the temperature is raised not more than 2°C per day. Release of excessive juice and collapse of the egg shape depends very much on caviar initial quality. Second grade caviar with initially soft and weak eggs will drastically de-grade as a result of freezing and become unusable. Only high quality first grade, loose and dry caviar should be frozen. Smaller size egg caviars, except for sturgeon eggs, are less susceptible to freezing. High quality salmon caviar has been kept frozen in vacuum packages for over 2 years and retained its high quality. Our own chemical and organoleptical examinations proved that the shelf life of frozen salmon caviar can be safely extended to 1 year. This means that caviar supply can last year round, which is important for this highly seasonal product in terms of supply - de-mand balance. When high quality eggs were used for frozen caviar, a qualified taste panel gave higher marks to this product as opposed to the fresh caviar processed from the same roe. If the frozen concept is used for small size retail packaged caviar, the risk of develop-ment of excessive juice is negligible as the small amount of eggs is protected by a rigid container and they are not squeezed by their own weight. In large bulk pails one finds after thawing a considerable amount of juice. For this rea-son we recommend that the institutional bulk package size of frozen caviar should not exceed 3 pounds. In spite of all this, there is still prejudice among retailers
and consumers who often re-ject consideration of caviar as a frozen
product. Strangely enough, the quality cautious Japanese market tends
to accept frozen caviar, whereas the European market hesitates to do
so. The issue of using vacuum packing for refrigerated caviar is often disputed by the ex-perts working with product safety programmes. The fact of the matter is that if a refrig-erated, uncooked, vacuum packed product is temperature abused during its lifetime, botulism can develop. The vacuum situation might prevent any visible signs of common spoilage but induce botulism development, which is not noticeable and the user may get the wrong impression that the product is safe. Having raised this potential danger we must point out that historically, caviar has a very good record regarding botulism occurrences. The development of botulism toxin in salmon caviar, inoculated with Clostridium botulinum, was tested on our behalf by the U.K. Tony Laboratory. No toxin was detected after inoculation and storage for 3 months at +20°C. The caviar was 3.5% salinity at pH 5.5. We would like to speculate that one reason for the extremely low probability of con-tamination of caviar with botulism is that the roe constitutes part of an inner organ, pro-tected naturally by many layers of connective tissues which do not come in contact with the external environment. If the technological operations and the general sanitation level in the plant are adequate there is an extremely low probability of caviar becoming contaminated. To conclude we believe that vacuum packing and freezing of caviar are acceptable procedures. 5.2 BULK AND RETAIL PACKAGEIt is common sense that caviar, as a non-cooked and perishable product, should be proc-essed, preserved and packed in its final retail or institutional package as close as possi-ble to the fishing grounds. However, for years the logistics of the caviar distribution sys-tem remains awkward. Namely the lions share of caviar is repacked and sometimes re-processed far from the fishing grounds and close to the distributors worldwide. The re-packed packages often end up at the original fishing sites as retail products. This tradi-tion introduces inevitable losses of quality and loss of original labelling information. The motives behind this unusual marketing tradition are of a purely commercial nature, e.g. custom duties in France are 30% on jars but nil on pails. However, in the long run such a strategy has proven to be damaging. Nowadays processors are reacting favoura-bly to the suggestion of developing retail caviar products. The Soviet Union is increasing every year its retail packaging
line capacity for both sturgeon and other caviars, altogether 8 automated
and numerous semi-automated proc-essing lines are taking care of about
50% of the total sturgeon caviar production. Stur-geon caviar is vacuum
packed and pasteurized in glass jars, mainly 2 and 4 oz (56 and 113
gram respectively), and 90 gram tins. The rest is packed in 1.8 and
0.6 kg cans/ the lid being secured with a rubber band. The cans are
packed higher than the rim, up to 7 mm for 0.6 kg and 15 cm for the
1.8 kg can. The lids are put on according to the marks on the body and
lid. The 4 to 6 cm wide rubber bands are put on after pressing and draining.
For the internal market, and for the so-called pressed caviar, small
wooden barrels with a sophisticated fabric and oil paper lining arrangement
are still used. In the past wooden barrels were the prevailing packaging
option.
FIGURE 5-1: Bulk Salmon Caviar Packages
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USE OF PRESERVATIVES
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AT STORAGE TEMPERATURES, °C
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12-18
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6-11
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0
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-2
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-3
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Caviar without preservatives
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2.5
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1.75
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1
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0.75
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0.35
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0.1% urotropin added
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1.75
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1.25
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1
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0.70
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0.30
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0.3% Borax added
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2.00
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1.85
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1.2
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0.80
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0.30
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0.1% Urotropin and 0.3% borax added
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1.50
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1.05
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0.6
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0.50
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0.30
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As one can see at -2° and -3°C preservatives are not beneficial. It is only at abusive storage temperatures that the preservatives help. Keeping caviar cold along the harvest-ing, processing and storage chain provides the safest quality assurance.
In 1854 Mr. R.G. Westacott of Worcester, Massachusetts, registered with United States Patent Office a patent No 7,895 on 'Sturgeon caviar taste improvement by adding 'oil extracted from the liver or milts of the male sturgeon'. Since this first attempt to enhance caviar product flavour many attempts were and are being made.
Salmon caviar is known to be sweetened, artificially dyed with bright red dyes, smoked and oiled. Adding up to 0.015% by weight of the humectant glycerol aims to prevent the eggs from sticking. Glycerol is introduced together with oil. It is used often for sockeye caviar because glycerols sweet aftertaste covers the potential slight bitterness of sockeye caviar.
Oiling is widely used. Vegetable oil is introduced before packing in order to prevent eggs from sticking together and to make them look shiny. Oil is added in the range 0.3 to 1.0% by weight, on average 0.6%. If the eggs are loose minimal amounts are applied. Oil is sprayed evenly over the surface of drained caviar and may be gently mixed in manually, on a flat stainless steel table using spatulas. Some sources recommend pre-heating oils to 160°C and then cooling them down to normal temperature before use. Sometimes oil is applied to the table surface where the eggs are mixed, to the palms of the hands, to the bowls and instruments. This prevents whole eggs from sticking to the surfaces, whereas broken membranes remain stuck and can be easily removed.
Adding oil may introduce into caviar a foreign flavour specific to the oil, which could spoil the taste. The oil should be of highest quality, refined, of neutral taste and mini-mally susceptible to oxidation and evaporation. Olive, peanut and corn oils are recom-mended.
Dyes are used almost exclusively for smaller size eggs to obtain bright attractive colours (e.g. the orange-red in flyfish caviar) or to imitate the most expensive sturgeon black caviar (lumpfish and whitefish caviars).
As in the case with preservatives the use of dyes is strictly regulated in each country by type and allowable concentrations. In Canada, the limits are within 150 to 300 ppm. In the U.S., the decision of maximum concentrations is left to 'good manufacturing prac-tices'.
There is, though, a group of dyes which are exempt from certification - usually the ones derived from natural plants. These dyes contain many unidentified organic components., e.g. carp caviar is dyed with a beet extract, which also sweetens the product.
Synthetically manufactured food dyes are pure substances and their use is always regu-lated. Some dyes could be of both natural or synthetic origin, e.g. caramel, carotenoids. All dyes are declared on the label by their individual name or certification number. The cost of synthetic dyes is usually less.
Dye manufacturers usually supply blends of primary basic dyes to fit the caviar proces-sor's requirements. Dyes can be supplied as powders, granulated or predissolved. Powders are not convenient because they are dusty and difficult to handle. Dyes for caviar should have very high solubility in water and be fully dissolved before use in a dyeing solution. Solution is facilitated by stirring and warm-ing. The strength of the dyeing solution and the caviar exposure (contact) time should be checked experimentally in order to find the best combination. It may differ even for the same type of caviar if the eggs differ in maturity, salinity or freshness.
Dyes may degrade from heat, light, oxidation or due to microorganisms. They also react differently depending on final product acidity.
It is advisable to prepare a concentrated water stock solution to keep consistency of product shade. This solution should be stored protected from heat, light and contamina-tion. Poorly dyed caviars, where the dye fixation is not stable, will leach when served as garnish and make the product not useable, see Figure 6-1.
Some caviar processors are adding flavouring agents to
produce a caviar product which is easily recognizable and favoured.
This is done only with roes which do not have a distinguished, natural,
yolky, pleasant flavour but have rather a blend taste, e.g. cod, pike
herring, desalted lumpfish eggs, etc. The commonly used flavours are:
bay leaf extract, vinegar marinade, lemon juice, pickle mix extract,
egg yolk powder, anchovy flavour, meat sauces, etc.
There are on the market salmon, shellfish, sturgeon and even caviar concentrates in the form of paste and water or oil soluble flavours. A research challenge is to develop a sturgeon-caviar substitute from lumpfish or whitefish roe, which tastes similar to stur-geon caviar, dyes a greyish-brownish colour, and has soft egg membranes in order to eliminate the chewiness. The existence of a very specific sturgeon flavour has been con-firmed by numerous organoleptic trials. This flavour can be described as very mild, pleasant, sweet, yolky, not 'fishy' and it is easily recognizable.
Pasteurization technology of food products has not changed essentially since it was sug-gested by Louis Pasteur over a century ago. Pasteurization, i.e. thermotreatment of air-tight or vacuum packed caviar, aims to kill the majority of microorganisms, inactivate ferments and create conditions to slow down the process of spore development. As opposed to cooking processes, which kill all microorganisms (and spores at elevated tem-peratures), caviar pasteurization is executed substantially at mild temperatures which do not affect the organoleptic properties of caviar: taste, texture, and colour. Pasteurization of caviars aims to provide longer shelf-life, and even allow short term storage at room temperature. It is one more statistically sound safety barrier for food quality which may be utilized together with or without chemical preservation. It does not guarantee free-dom from spoilage at abusive temperatures if the initial microbiological contamination is extensive and the type of microorganisms involved tolerate the combination of pas-teurization temperatures and exposure times.
Pasteurization makes it easier to meet the market demand for extra low caviar salinities, while not using chemical preservatives and still having a reasonable shelf life. Use of 'double' pasteurization is reported to eliminate the spores of the spore forming microor-ganisms. Before the second pasteurization, the caviar is incubated for at least 24 hours at ~25°C to allow the spores to vegetate and become susceptible to the second pasteuri-zation treatment. It is reported that sometimes this pasteurization and incubation proc-ess is repeated alternately three times. Another advantage of pasteurized caviar is that they withstand the rigor of freezing much better in that the eggs do not get softer. A storage temperature of -10 to -20°C could be considered.
Pasteurization is a costly technological operation (labour and energy) which also ad-versely affects product organoleptical properties if the technological regimes are not controlled properly. The range of pasteurization temperatures is 50 to 70°C. At these mild temperatures egg proteins do not undergo substantial coagulation and their appear-ance remains the same. Slight changes in colour are noticeable, e.g. paling for salmon caviar, darkening towards yellowish colour for the off-white whitefish caviar. After pas-teurization the outer membrane and interior yolky liquid become denser. As a result of thermal denaturation the amount of soluble proteins, e.g. albumin is reduced. Different caviar types react somewhat differently to pasteurization. The delicate sturgeon eggs tend to firm up, get chewier whereas soft or immature salmon eggs may lose their shape. Mature and fresh salmon eggs do not change substantially as a result of pasteurization.
Only the best grades of caviar, for maturity and freshness, should be pasteurized. Caviar designated for pasteurization should be drained after salting to a lesser extent. In fact caviar destined for pasteurization is filled into containers quite moist. Pasteurization of poor quality eggs may produce unedible product because the eggs may burst and offen-sive odours may be released.
The recommendations of pasteurization time-temperature regimes often differ. Obvi-ously the higher the pasteurization temperature and longer the exposure, the more effec-tive is the microorganism and enzyme inactivation process. The limits to pasteurization temperature and exposure time are set by the described above adverse effects on caviar organoleptical properties. In each case the processor has to make a balanced decision depending on initial contamination, egg quality, required shelf-life and consumer re-quests. The numerical values given in Table 5-4 summarize the experience of caviar processors throughout the world and can be used as guidelines.
CAVIAR TYPE
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MAXIMUM PASTEURIZATION, TEMPERATURE, °C
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EXPOSURE TIME (wanning up time excluded), min.
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Sturgeon & Whitefish
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58-59
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60-90
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Salmon & Lumpfish
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65-69
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60-120
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What is important is that the accuracy of temperature control should be within ±1°C and the temperatures should be homogeneous throughout the pasteurizer space. It is well documented that at temperatures exceeding the maximum levels shown in Table 5-4 by 1 to 2°C, the changes in caviar are drastic and it may become unusable. For instance, at 56-60°C only slight changes in pink salmon caviar colour are noticeable, at 71 °C all the eggs look dull, at 72°C the egg yolk is totally coagulated and the caviar converts into a chewy "boiled egg mass'. It is reported that the use of nisin permits reduction of pas-teurization time, thus preventing eggs from excessive toughening.
The pasteurization temperature should be measured in the middle of the container. Pas-teurization in containers larger than 150 g is not heard of. Depending on the container design (glass or tin, dimension ratio) the 'warming up' period until the temperature in the middle of the container reaches its target, is different and ranges from 10 minutes for 25 g tins to 40 minutes for 150 g glass jar. Caviar pasteurization is usually performed as a batch process in a water bath, heated by electricity or steam. The water/caviar mass ratio in pasteurization tanks should be 5:1. The water temperature before immersing the racks could be raised by 1-2°C higher than the desired pasteurization temperature. The even-ness of temperature in the tanks is provided by constant water circulation. Water tem-perature is easy to control and monitor. The pasteurizers should have good thermoinsu-lation. Conveyor type pasteurizers, where hot water is sprayed over the containers are widely used for lumpfish caviar pasteurization. Figure 5-3c. Pasteurization tanks are of-ten self-made and care should be taken to ensure homogenous temperatures throughout the tank volume, automatic temperature regulation, sufficient thermoinsulation, safe unloading of the hot racks while moving them for cooling and drying.

An example of a step-by-step retail packaging technology
flow-chart is shown in Figure 5-4.
The diagram does not cover all possible options and serves only to outline caviar retail packing specifics. The choice of packing line machinery and specific technological steps depends on the desired packaging line capacity. Any retail packaging line is quite universal and could be used with minor adjustments for packaging caviar, fisheries or other products. Container sterilization can be done using steam sterilizers or dry-heat ovens. Lids or caps, with plastic or other sealing liners, may not withstand the high ster-ilization temperatures and should be washed or rinsed with hydrogen peroxide solutions.
Frozen bulk products are thawed to 10°C to provide for sufficient fluidity of the product while it is filled and compacted. The filling operation is one of the most time consuming in the whole caviar processing line. Both volumetric and weight portioning can be used. Most important is to provide for a dense packing, so that all air pockets in the container are eliminated. Compacting salmon caviar with excessive force after the container is filled may bring about the rupture of eggs. That is why manual packing takes place in portions, the previous portion being compacted before the next portion is filled. In automated fillers the so-called 'bottom up' technique may be useful. This technique syn-chronizes a movement of the filling nozzle upward from the container bottom during the filling process. The same desired effect can be achieved by synchronized movements of the container down.
Salmon caviar constitutes a semi-viscous sticky material which is extremely difficult to fill. Its consistency and viscosity differ substantially from batch to batch. Single eggs stick slightly together and also tend to stick to the bins and containers. Vegetable oil may be used to facilitate egg mass flow. Also, 100% brine can be used, in tiny amounts for the same purpose, keeping in mind that some brine will be absorbed by the eggs af-ter packing. Difficulties in eliminating air pockets could be caused by the glass jar con-figuration. In case of the jar in Figure 5-5, it is important to compact salmon caviar in the cone shaped comers. Other difficulties in filling are related to weak eggs, which burst easily when exposed to excessive mechanical pressure.
These conditions warrant a relatively slow salmon caviar filling process. This is not a problem with smaller size egg caviars.
Many packers are using piston fillers and experience excessive
egg breakage. Pneumatic piston fillers are volumetric fillers which
push the product with considerably speed. Me-chanical piston fillers
allow for better piston movement speed regulation.
Another solution is to use an auger filler with an undersized auger
and oversized funnel. Portioning is provided by setting the number of
auger revolutions per portion. At auger speeds of 150 to 200 r.p.m.,
accurate 50 g weight portioning can be achieved. To avoid caviar drips
after the auger stops, a cutoff disk should be used.
To summarize, mechanised and automated filling of caviar products into retail contain-ers is possible with speeds of 8 to 30 containers per minute per one filling head, the lar-ger number relating to small size containers and strong eggs. The majority of small re-tail caviar packaging companies are filling caviar manually, sometimes using specially designed spatulas.
If the retail package is meant for vacuum packing a sufficient head space should be left, usually 3 to 5 mm from the rim. If the package is only air tight sealed, no head space is needed and the container should be filled to the rim. In both cases it is advisable to put a tight oil paper gasket over the surface of the caviar to preserve the product surface from drying, freezer burn or simply to keep it neat. Gaskets could be soaked in antioxidants, preservatives, brine or vegetable oil.
There are many types of vacuum packing or sealing machines available. The choice de-pends first of all on the closure design: double seaming of cans; crimping metal closures over glass; twist-off; press on twist-off; pry-off; deep snap-reseal closures; or ther-mosealed foil lids. Figure 5-6. Not all of the vacuum closure types withstand pasteuriza-tion.


Depending on the needed capacity the widest range of automated machines are avail-able: from small vacuum chamber machines with manual in-feed of a single container to fully automated multi-head vacuum and gas-flush machines. There is not sufficient in-formation on the effectiveness of gas-flush technology for caviar products. Steam injec-tion into head space to obtain vacuum is not suitable for caviar/ because it may overheat the product surface.
Vacuumization maintains the majority of lids or ends concave.
A vacuum level of 125 cm of mercury is sufficient. A very affordable way to vacuum pack twist-off or similar closures by using a standard vacuum chamber is described be-low step by step, see Figure 5-7 and 5-8.
After filling, put the lid cap onto the jar and twist it lightly to bring the closure lugs in contact with the containers interrupted threads. Figure 5-7.4). Fill the chamber to capac-ity with jars. Figure 5-8.9. Close the chamber and draw vacuum. The air is drawn out of the jars because there is still a clearance between the glass and the cap. As soon as the chamber opens, atmospheric pressure will press the cap towards the glass rim, the plas-tisol gasket will vacuum seal the container, and the cap surface will cave in. Figure 5-8.10.

By applying reasonable force, close the twist-off cap tightly. It will
turn only slightly and finish the vacuum packing operation. Figure 5-8.11.
Applying excessive torque when tightening may result in 'overturning'
of the cap. A good idea is to execute the final tightening turn using
a device which regulates the torque.
Some caps, for different reasons, won't cave in and the operation is then repeated. When vacuum packing is done this way it is necessary to use oil paper gaskets to prevent cav-iar from being sucked out. Check-weighing of caviar products is mandatory.
All the containers (pasteurized or not) are quickly washed at 50°C in 1-2% alkaline wa-ter and passed on for cooling in a 25-35°C waterbath with running water or by spraying with water at water temperatures not lower than 18°C to stop the pasteurization process. Finally, containers are dried by blowing warm dry air for 15-20 minutes or by wiping dry. Sometimes containers are placed in the pasteurizer upside down to make it easier to detect leakages.
Further operations of labelling, tamper-resistant sealing and boxing are self-explanatory. If pasteurized caviar is meant to be stored frozen, it should be refrigerated for at least 24 hours before placing in the freezer. Usually the original boxes in which the glass jars were supplied are reused for product delivery.